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 521-539 of 539 Results  for:

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Article

Vincidor, Tommaso  

Anna Maria Ferrari

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

( di Andrea ) [ il Bologna ]

(b Bologna; d Breda, 1534–6).

Italian painter. He is first mentioned in a document drafted in Rome in 1517. According to Vasari, he was a pupil of Raphael and was among the artists who worked with him on the frescoes in the Vatican Logge. In 1520 he travelled to Flanders, carrying a letter of recommendation from Pope Leo X, to prepare cartoons for tapestries—to be woven in Brussels—for the Sala di Costantino and the Sala del Concistoro in the Vatican. In Flanders he met Dürer, who mentioned him in his Journal of Travels in the Low Countries (travels made between 1520 and 1521). Vincidor made a portrait of Dürer (untraced; copy by Willem van Haecht II, Antwerp, Rubenshuis).

On the basis of the written descriptions of the tapestry cartoons for the Sala di Costantino that Vincidor sent Leo X in 1521, the following works have been firmly attributed to him: the drawings of Playing Putti...

Article

Vinne, van der (family)  

B. C. Sliggers

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

Dutch family of artists. They were Mennonites from Haarlem, and about ten members of the family practised as artists during the 17th and 18th centuries. Some members of the family were also employed in the manufacture and sale of textiles. Vincent Laurensz. van der Vinne is best known for his travel diaries and sketches. It is possible that some of the drawings attributed to him are by his son Laurens Vincentsz. van der Vinne (1658–1729), whose brothers Jan Vincentsz. van der Vinne and Izaak Vincentsz. van der Vinne (1665–1740) were also artists. Three of Laurens’s children worked as painters and engravers: Vincent Laurensz. van der Vinne (1686–1742), Jacob Laurensz. van der Vinne (1688–1737) and Jan Laurensz. van der Vinne (1699–1753). In the next generation Jacob’s son Laurens Jacobsz. van der Vinne (1712–42) became a flower painter, and two of Jan’s children, ...

Article

Vionnet, Madeleine  

Lourdes Font

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
02 July 2009

( Marie Valentine )

(b Chilleurs-aux-Bois, June 22, 1876; d Paris, March 2, 1975).

French fashion designer. Vionnet was one of the most innovative and influential dressmakers of the 20th century. She brought a brilliant analytical mind, superb technical ability, and the rigorous taste of a modernist to the craft of dressmaking. Vionnet’s designs revealed the body and followed its movements; she worked by draping and cutting fabric in the round on a mannequin. Although Vionnet is known for the bias-cut, her method was based upon a thorough understanding of the structure of textiles, which she described as the three ways of fabric: the straight grain, cross grain and bias.

Vionnet was raised by her father, a toll collector, in the suburbs of Paris. Although she was an excellent student and hoped to become a teacher, when she was 11 her father was persuaded to apprentice her to a local dressmaker. This early training laid the foundation for Vionnet’s extraordinary technical abilities. At the age of 17 she moved to the Maison Vincent, a small couture house in Paris, and within two years she became a ...

Image

Cover Wari Tunic Fragment, 7th-9th c.

Wari Tunic Fragment, 7th-9th c.  

In 

Image

Wari Tunic Fragment, camelid hair, tapestry weave, cotton, 32.7 × 53.3cm, Peru, 7th-9th c. (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Michael C. Rockefeller Memorial Collection, Bequest of Nelson A. Rockefeller, 1979. Accession Number:1979.206.394.)

Photo credit: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, public domain

Article

Warp  

Gordon Campbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
11 February 2013

Article

Wayne, June  

Pat Gilmour

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

( Claire )

(b Chicago, March 7, 1918; Los Angeles, Aug 23, 2011).

American painter, printmaker, tapestry designer, writer and lecturer. She left school at 15 to become a painter, using her given names, June Claire, but her reputation was made after her marriage, when she became June Wayne. Her first exhibition, in 1935, of watercolours based on Ben Day dots, took place a quarter of a century before the birth of Pop art and won her an official invitation to Mexico. Pursuing a rich diversity of ideas, fashionable and unfashionable, she often anticipated aesthetic developments. For example, her spatial constructions of 1950—ink drawings on glass slotted into a framework—predated Rauschenberg’s by 14 years, while the imagery of her lithograph Strange Moon (1951; see Gilmour, no. 12)—an expanded chequer-board traversed by floating discs—preceded Op art by a decade. Her lithographic illumination (1958) of John Donne’s Songs and Sonets was among the first books in the French livre de peintre...

Article

Weft  

Gordon Campbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
11 February 2013

Article

Westwood [née Swire], Vivienne  

Nancy Deihl

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
02 July 2009

(Isabel)

(b Glossopdale, Derbs, April 8, 1941).

English fashion designer. The early phase of her career was closely affiliated with contemporary music, including costume design for the rock band the New York Dolls. Over the course of more than 30 years in fashion, Westwood became known for her use of historical sources and her enthusiasm for British dress and textile traditions (see fig.).

Westwood grew up in Derbyshire, where her parents managed a post office. The family moved to north-west London when she was 17. After her grammar school education, Westwood attended Harrow Art College, where she studied fashion and silversmithing, but left after one term. She trained to become a primary school teacher, married Derek Westwood in 1962 and had a son, Benjamin, one year later.

Westwood had a subsequent relationship with Malcolm McLaren (1946–2010), whom she met in 1965 after her divorce from her first husband. They had a son, Joseph Ferdinand Corré, in ...

Article

Wheeler, Candace  

John Mawer

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

(Thurber)

(b Delhi, Delaware Co., NY, 1827; d New York, Aug 5, 1923).

American designer. She came from a prosperous and artistic background. She saw the Royal School of Needlework’s exhibition at the Centennial International Exhibition of 1876 in Philadelphia, which inspired her to found, in 1877, the Society of Decorative Arts of New York City, the aim of which was to restore the status of crafts traditionally associated with women and provide them with the opportunity to produce high-quality, handmade work which could be profit-making. The Society, which generated sister branches in major American cities, taught many design and craft techniques, but art needlework remained the focus. In 1879 Wheeler entered into partnership with Louis Comfort Tiffany (see Tiffany family, §2) to form Louis C. Tiffany & Associated Artists, which, by the early 1880s, was the most successful decorating firm in New York. She designed embroideries, textiles (see fig.), and wallpaper for the company, but in 1883 the partnership was dissolved. Wheeler retained the ...

Article

Whitework  

Gordon Campbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
11 February 2013

Article

William and Mary style  

M. Hamilton-Phillips and R. P. Maccubbin

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

Term applied primarily to decorative arts produced in The Netherlands and England during the reign (1689–1702) of William III and Mary II (see Orange Nassau, House of family §(5)) and that spread also to North America at the end of the century. It covers a vocabulary of visual forms rather than a movement, and is represented by richly ornamented furniture, displays of wares from the Far East, embossed and engraved silver, ceramics, luxurious textiles, architectural ornament and garden design. The decorative arts of the 1690s reflect the blending of French, Dutch and English ornamental styles as well as an increased taste for exotica. Although at war with France, William III admired the sophistication of French culture and encouraged the immigration of Huguenot refugees, the French Protestants who fled from France after 1685 when Louis XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes, which had guaranteed them freedom of worship (...

Article

Wilson, Anne  

Geraldine Craig

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
09 July 2012

(b Detroit, MI, April 16, 1949).

American sculptor, animation, performance, and installation artist. Wilson was a leading figure among artists who began working in the progressive contemporary craft movement of the 1970s and1980s and gained prominence in the art mainstream by the 1990s. Influenced by the alignment of textiles with feminist art that emerged in the 1970s, Wilson employed the cultural associations of diverse source materials (table linens, bed sheets, human hair, lace, thread, wire, glass) to interrogate how craft and context can define a feminist position in art by subverting the boundaries of middle-class propriety and social values.

An early favoured subject and material for Wilson was human hair. Her internet-based project hairinquiry (1996–9) solicited responses to the questions: ‘How does it feel to lose your hair?’ and ‘What does it mean to cut your hair?’, returned through e-mail, fax, and conventional mail. Her sculptural work Lost (1998) was made by embroidering black human hair onto a used white linen tablecloth that was draped over a chair – the discarded hair treated with transgressive care suggests a powerful residue of memory and life lost. With her installation ...

Article

Worsted  

Gordon Campbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
11 February 2013

Article

Worth, Charles Frederick  

Lourdes Font

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
02 July 2009

(b Bourne, Lincs, Oct 13, 1825; d Paris, March 10, 1895)

English-born French dress designer ( see fig. ). Considered the founding father of haute couture, Worth is also remembered as couturier to the Empress Eugénie (1826–1920) during the Second Empire. A fabric salesman turned fashion designer, and a man in what had been a woman’s profession, Worth sought to elevate dressmaking to the status of art.

Worth was born into a middle-class family in northern England. His education was interrupted by the age of 13, when he began an apprenticeship at a dry-goods store in London. Dry-goods stores sold textiles, fashion accessories and some ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing. Worth worked as a salesman at two stores, Swan & Edgar and Lewis & Allenby, the latter suppliers to Queen Victoria. Around 1846 he left for Paris and found employment at A la Ville de Paris, one of the city’s magasins de nouveautés, equivalent to London’s dry-goods stores. Around 1848...

Article

(2) Wouter (Pietersz.) Crabeth (i)  

Wouter Th. Kloek

In 

Article

Article

(3) Wouter (Pietersz.) Crabeth (ii)  

Leonard J. Slatkes

In 

Article

Article

Würzburg Tapestry Factory  

Gordon Campbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
11 February 2013

German tapestry factory founded in 1721 by Johann Philipp Franz von Schönborn (1673–1724), Prince-Bishop of Würzburg. The director from 1728 was Andreas Pirot ( fl 1728; d 1763), who probably came from a Frankenthal tapestry-weaving family. The best known products of the factory are the two series of ...

Article

Yamamoto, Yohji  

Pamela Roskin

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
14 May 2009

(b Yokohama, Oct 3, 1943).

Japanese fashion designer (see fig.). Yamamoto’s influential designs combined traditional Japanese silhouettes with notions of architectural forms and impeccable tailoring. The collections from the designer’s early years were often in dark, muted colours and featured unstructured oversized layers that evoked the uncut philosophy of the Japanese kimono. Later in his career, he incorporated splashes of bright colour into his pieces.

Yamamoto’s father, a soldier, died in World War II. His mother was a seamstress. Yamamoto received a degree in law in 1966 before graduating in 1969 from the Bunkafukuso Gakuin, a prestigious Tokyo fashion school. That same year he won two fashion design awards, the So-en and Endo. He then lived in Paris for two years where he became familiar with European ideals in fashion. The juxtaposition of high style amidst the French student riots, anti-war protests and the women’s rights movement had a profound effect on his work. In an interview with ...

Article

Zorach, Marguerite  

Roberta K. Tarbell

Article

Publication History:

Published online:
2003

[née Thompson]

(b Santa Rosa, CA, Sept 25, 1887; d New York, June 27, 1968).

American painter, textile artist, and printmaker. She represents an early modernist who applied Cubism and German Expressionist approaches to both painting and textile design. In Paris from 1908 to1911 she studied with Jacques-Emile Blanche and J. D. Fergusson at the Académie de la Palette, a small modernist school where she met William Zorach. She was especially inspired by German Expressionist painters and Henri Matisse, whose work she encountered in avant-garde circles. Travelling in Belgium, Spain, Germany, and France with Jessica Dismorr (later an English Vorticist), Zorach created a few etchings and painted landscapes with agitated brush strokes, Expressionist colour, and blue outlines in the manner of Whistler. She exhibited with the American Women’s Art Association (1910), and in 1911 at the Salon de la Société des Artistes Indépendants and the Salon d’Automne in Paris. Dismorr and Thompson contributed abstracted pen-and-ink figure drawings to the English avant-garde publication Rhythm...