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French, 20th century, male.

Born 1882, in Nantes; died 1932.

Painter (gouache), watercolourist, draughtsman, illustrator, stylist. Figures, portraits, landscapes. Stage costumes and sets.

Art Deco.

On the suggestion of his friends Lesage and Broca, Georges Barbier studied with Jean-Paul Laurens. He was to work mainly for the theatre and the cinema, designing costumes and sets. He was responsible for Rudolph Valentino's costumes in the film ...

Article

Erté  

Russian, 20th century, male.

Active from 1910 in France.

Born 1892, in St Petersburg; died 21 April 1990, in Paris.

Painter (including gouache), sculptor, draughtsman, illustrator, stylist, decorative designer. Stage costumes and sets, designs for jewellery, furniture.

Art Deco.

The son of an admiral in the Imperial navy, Erté was a pupil of Ilya Repin in St Petersburg. He went to Paris at the age of eighteen, apparently attended the Académie Julian and was admitted to the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Jean-Paul Laurens' workshop. He began his career in 1913 with the couturier Paul Poiret. From that year onwards, he designed stage costumes for Mata-Hari, Mistinguett and Gaby Deslys and in 1914 he worked for the journals ...

Article

French, 20th century, male.

Born 8 June 1883, in Angoulême; died 21 September 1935, in Menton.

Draughtsman, caricaturist, illustrator, designer. Designs (wallpapers/fabrics/jewels), stage costumes and sets.

Art Deco.

During World War I, Paul Iribe published a periodical entitled The Word ( Le Mot), along with Dufy, Sem, Cocteau, Lhote and others. In ...

Article

Dora Pérez-Tibi

revised by Kristen E. Stewart

(b Paris, April 20, 1879; d Paris, April 28, 1944).

French costume designer, dress designer and painter. Despite paternal opposition to his precocious artistic gifts, Poiret attracted attention with his first fashion drawings for Mme Chéruit at the Maison Raudnitz, 21, Place Vendôme, Paris. From 1898 to 1900 he worked for Jacques(-Antoine) Doucet and distinguished himself by creating the famous costume ‘Aiglon’ (Fr.: ‘eaglet’; the nickname of Napoleon II; untraced) for Sarah Bernhardt. From 1901 he worked for the fashion house Worth, where he designed the Eastern-influenced cloak, ‘Confucius’ (1901–2; Paris, Mus. Mode & Cost.). Poiret opened his first fashion house in 1902 on the Rue Auber in Paris. There he produced innovative designs such as the kimono coat and the ‘Révérend’ (1905; Paris, Mus. Mode & Cost.) and enlarged his clientele of famous customers. In 1910 he opened new salons in a large 18th-century house, in the Avenue d’Antin, where he created his famous ‘hobble-skirted’ dresses, drawn in at the hem. Dubbed the ‘Prophet of Simplicity’ in a ...

Article

French, 20th century, male.

Born 1 December 1896, in Paris; died 7 March 1988, in Paris.

Pastellist, painter (including gouache/mixed media), draughtsman, designer. Animals. Designs for stained glass, stage costumes and sets.

Art Deco.

In 1913, Gaston Suisse studied at the school of decorative arts in Paris, where he learned the craft of lacquering. In 1920, he was taught by Paul Renouard, David, Albert d'Ys and Kruber. He was a friend of the decorative artist Dunand and of Jouve, Trémont, Sandoz, Petersen and Guyot, with whom he participated in all the major salons. He was awarded the Puvis de Chavannes prize in 1936. He executed decorative works for the Alhambra of Algiers in 1925, for the Galeries Lafayette's Pavillon de la Maîtrise and for the reception hall of the Conseil Municipal de Paris. He designed theatrical sets for the Paris Opéra and costumes for the Comédie-Française. He also produced fabric designs for Madame Duchesne, cartoons for stained glass windows for Grubber and a number of lacquered decorative panels for such celebrated individuals as Jansen, Straub, Ruhlmann and Boyer. He also produced many pencil, charcoal and pastel life drawings of animals which show a great understanding of animals and which he then executed in lacquer....

Article

Paul Louis Bentel

(b Vienna, 1872; d New York, July 10, 1933).

American architect, stage designer, interior designer and illustrator of Austrian birth. He studied at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste in Vienna under Karl Hasenauer. Urban first received recognition as an architect in the USA in 1904 when his design for the interior of the Austrian Pavilion at the World’s Fair in St Louis, MO, was awarded a Gold Medal. He subsequently established himself in Europe as a stage designer; in 1911 he emigrated to the USA to assume a position as set designer with the Boston Opera Company.

After the completion of the Ziegfield Theater (1922), New York, Urban solidified his reputation as an architect with unexecuted proposals for several large theatres. For the Metropolitan Opera House, intended as the focal point of the first schemes for the Rockefeller Center (1926–8), he proposed a semi-circular seating arrangement, to which he added galleries that projected from the proscenium into the seating area to break down the separation between audience and stage. In ...