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Article

Michèle Lavallée

[Fr.: ‘new art’]

Decorative style of the late 19th century and the early 20th that flourished principally in Europe and the USA. Although it influenced painting and sculpture, its chief manifestations were in architecture and the decorative and graphic arts, the aspects on which this survey concentrates. It is characterized by sinuous, asymmetrical lines based on organic forms; in a broader sense it encompasses the geometrical and more abstract patterns and rhythms that were evolved as part of the general reaction to 19th-century historicism. There are wide variations in the style according to where it appeared and the materials that were employed.

Art Nouveau has been held to have had its beginnings in 1894 or 1895. A more appropriate date would be 1884, the year the progressive group Les XX was founded in Belgium, and the term was used in the periodical that supported it, Art Moderne: ‘we are believers in Art Nouveau’. The origin of the name is usually attributed to ...

Article

Alan Crawford

Informal movement in architecture and the decorative arts that championed the unity of the arts, the experience of the individual craftsman, and the qualities of materials and construction in the work itself.

The Arts and Crafts Movement developed in the second half of the 19th century and lasted well into the 20th, drawing its support from progressive artists, architects and designers, philanthropists, amateurs, and middle-class women seeking work in the home. They set up small workshops apart from the world of industry, revived old techniques, and revered the humble household objects of pre-industrial times. The movement was strongest in the industrializing countries of northern Europe and in the USA, and it can best be understood as an unfocused reaction against industrialization. Although quixotic in its anti-industrialism, it was not unique; indeed it was only one among several late 19th-century reform movements, such as the Garden City movement, vegetarianism, and folksong revivals, that set the Romantic values of nature and folk culture against the artificiality of modern life....

Article

Russian, 19th – 20th century, male.

Active in France.

Born 10 May 1866, in St Petersburg; died 28 December 1924, in Paris.

Painter (including gouache), watercolourist, draughtsman, illustrator. Portraits, nudes, genre scenes, landscapes, seascapes. Stage sets, stage costumes, posters.

Symbolism, Art Nouveau.

Mir Iskusstva (World of Art) group...

Article

French, 19th century, male.

Born 29 March 1808, in Paris; died 20 October 1892, in Paris.

Painter (including gouache), watercolourist, illustrator, lithographer. Historical subjects, religious subjects, figures, genre scenes, interiors with figures, architectural views, costume studies.

Jules David studied under Duval-Lecamus and featured in the Paris Salon from 1834 to 1885....

Article

German, 19th century, male.

Born 19 November 1865, in Hamburg; died 11 June 1902, in Badenweiler.

Painter, decorative artist, illustrator, engraver, designer, ceramicist, textile designer. Portraits, landscapes, flowers. Designs for stained glass, designs for tapestries, ex-libris plates, advertising posters, fabrics, ceramics, metal objects, ironware, lamps, furniture, typefaces, jewellery, wallpaper...

Article

German, 20th century, male.

Born 12 April 1871, in Berlin; died 15 April 1925, in Breslau (now Wroclaw, Poland).

Draughtsman, architect, decorative artist, designer, illustrator, author. Furniture, jewellery, lamps, art objects.

Jugendstil.

Deutscher Werkbund.

In Munich, August Endell studied philosophy, art history, aesthetics and psychology, notably a course run by Theodor Lipp on the psychological effect of the perception of lines and forms. There, in ...

Article

Ann Poulson

Fashion illustration is a work of visual art, usually in the medium of drawing, print or watercolour painting, reproduced and published in order to disseminate fashion news (see figs 1 and 2). Before the 1670s, the dissemination of fashion depended on portraits of fashion leaders, such as van Dyck’s portraits of the members of the court of King Charles I of England, reproduced by means of engraved prints. These engraved prints were the forerunners to the fashion plate in both technique and style (see also Fashion plate and costume book. The fashion plate, which usually showed the full figure, often including a back view, was created solely to illustrate and promote the latest fashions. By the middle of the 17th century, certain artists, such as Abraham Bosse in France and Wenceslaus Hollar in England, specialized in these types of engravings.

The first fashion journal, Le Mercure Galant, combined fashion plates with descriptive text. It was published sporadically from ...

Article

Elizabeth Ashman Rowe

Illuminated 14th-century deluxe Icelandic manuscript (420×290 mm, 202 fols; Reykjavík, Árni Magnússon Institute, GKS 1005 fol.) of King Sverrir’s Saga. It was compiled by the priests Jón Þórðarson and Magnús Þórhallsson for Jón Hákonarson (1350–before 1416), a wealthy landowner in northern Iceland who collected sagas of the kings of Norway. A note on folio 4r dates Jón Þórðarson’s contribution to 1387, and Magnús Þórhallsson’s annals at the end of the manuscript indicate the book was completed in 1394 or 1395. Magnús illuminated the whole manuscript and was the scribe of King Sverrir’s Saga (composed in part by Abbot Karl Jónsson of Þingeyrar, Iceland, c. 1185). The saga contains eight initials decorated in a style combining Gothic curved and draped human figures with Romanesque grotesques and acanthus motifs. Five initials depict Sverrir (with crown, orb and weapons), his opponent Sigurðr, and their soldiers. One initial is foliate, and two depict hybrid monsters. The taunting grotesque (fol. 156...

Article

British, 19th – 20th century, male.

Born 1862, in Birmingham; died 4 June 1928.

Painter, watercolourist, draughtsman, illustrator, worker in precious metals, designer. Religious subjects, allegorical subjects, portraits. Jewellery.

Arts and Crafts.

Arthur Joseph Gaskin studied at the Birmingham School of Art, where he later taught. He was a member of the Arts and Crafts movement founded by William Morris, whose aim was to revitalise the decorative arts. From 1899, together with his wife Georgina Cave France, he created gold and silver jewellery, sometimes decorated with enamel. In 1902, he replaced R. Catterson Smith as director of the Birmingham School of Jewellery. He exhibited paintings at the Royal Academy in London in 1889 and 1890 and jewellery at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle....

Article

French, 18th – 19th century, male.

Born c. 1773, in Caen; died after 1824.

Engraver (burin), illustrator, reproductions engraver. Genre scenes, costume studies.

George Gatine belongs to the category of minor artists whose efforts focused on the role of the 'painter of manners' and the absurdities of their era. Gatine drew or engraved costumes and genre scenes. He was one of the iconographers of the dandies and the whims of fashion. He is interesting from a documentary viewpoint and his works are highly sought after....

Article

Avis Berman

(b Roxbury, MA, Sept 14, 1867; d New York, NY, Dec 23, 1944).

American illustrator. Gibson’s graphic creation, the “Gibson Girl,” became a symbol of upper-middle-class American womanhood from 1890 to 1914. The Gibson Girl’s appearance and dress were widely imitated and her popularity helped shape social attitudes at a time when women’s roles were undergoing dramatic changes.

Growing up in Massachusetts and New York City, Gibson entered the Art Students League at 16, studying there for two years. In 1885 he left school to make a living as an illustrator. Gibson drew in pen-and-ink, his medium for the rest of his career, but his early sketches were stiff and labored. In 1886 he sold his first drawing for $4 to Life, a weekly humor magazine. Emulating the draftsmanship of the British cartoonists John Leech, Charles Keene, George Du Maurier and Phil(ip William) May, Gibson developed a freer and more economical style. He successfully sold arch scenes of politics and society to Life...

Article

Simon Houfe

(b Blackheath, July 21, 1817; d Blackheath, Oct 5, 1897).

English illustrator and painter. While articled to his father’s estate agency for two years, he spent his time sketching City of London costumes and liveries and regimental uniforms. This meticulous historical knowledge helped when he became a full-time artist in 1836, exhibiting oils at the Royal Society of British Artists and the British Institution, both in London. From 1842 he was the first artist to contribute historical scenes to the Illustrated London News, making a total of 30,000 illustrations in 40 years. Gilbert found ample employment in book illustration, his classical draughtsmanship being ideal for such publications as Howard Staunton’s Shakespeare (1856–60). He began to paint in watercolour in 1851, developing mastery as a colourist and in working on a large scale; he was elected to the Old Water Colour Society in 1854 and was its President in 1871. He became an ARA in 1872 and an RA in ...

Article

French, 19th century, male.

Born 1827, in Épineuil (Yonne); died 1892, in St-Mandé (Val-de-Marne).

Painter (including gouache), watercolourist, draughtsman, illustrator. Figures, scenes with figures. Stage costumes.

Employed on the railway at Lyons, Grévin started on the Journal Amusant and on the Petit Journal pour Rire...

Article

Russian, 19th – 20th century, male.

Active from 1923 in France.

Born 23 November 1861, in Moscow; died 11 September 1939, in Paris.

Painter (including gouache), watercolourist, illustrator, decorative artist, architect. Scenes with figures, rural landscapes, urban landscapes, harbour scenes, still lifes, flowers.

Stage sets, stage costumes...

Article

(b Keighley, W. Yorks, March 28, 1834; d Paterson, NJ, Feb 15, 1923).

American manufacturer and collector. He came to Boston in 1851 and began his career as a bookkeeper with the firm of Tilt & Dexter, manufacturers of silk goods and dress trimmings. In 1855 he became a partner and head of the New York branch. In 1858 he bought out Dexter and became head of the company known as Dexter, Lambert & Co., moving the factory from Boston to Paterson, NJ. He built a home, Belle-Vista Castle, in Paterson, which became the showplace of the city, especially for his large and diverse art collection of more than 600 paintings. He was a patron of Ralph Albert Blakelock and owned 11 of his paintings (e.g. Sunset; Trenton, NJ State Mus.). In 1899 he sold Monet’s Chrysanthemums (1882) and Renoir’s By the Seashore (1883) to Durand-Ruel’s gallery in New York: these were acquired by Henry Osborne Havemeyer (1848–1907...

Article

French, 19th century, male.

Born 12 January 1800, in Paris; died 19 December 1890, in Paris.

Painter (gouache), watercolourist, lithographer, decorative designer, illustrator. History painting, battles, portraits, genre scenes, hunting scenes (hunting with hounds), costume studies.

Eugène Lami studied under Gros, Horace Vernet, and at the École des Beaux-Arts. He exhibited at the Salon from 1824 until 1878. He was awarded a second-class medal in 1875, became a Chevalier of the Légion d'Honneur in 1837 and was made an officer in 1862. His early work was as a lithographer. He is considered to have possessed the acuity of Raffet, with less force of expression but more elegance....

Article

French, 19th – 20th century, male.

Born 1 November 1853, in Paris; died 7 October 1940, in Paris.

Painter, watercolourist, draughtsman, engraver, illustrator, stage set designer. Historical subjects, figures, scenes with figures, genre scenes, costume studies. Fans.

Maurice Leloir was the son of Jean-Baptiste Auguste Leloir and the watercolourist Héloïse Colin, and the brother of Alexandre Louis Leloir. He was taught by his grandfather, Alexandre Colin, his parents and his elder brother....

Article

Belgian, 19th – 20th century, male.

Born 25 November 1865, in Schaerbeek (Brussels); died 15 July 1916, in Ukkel.

Painter (including gouache), draughtsman, engraver, designer, lithographer, illustrator, poster artist, potter. Figures, nudes, portraits, interiors with figures, scenes with figures, landscapes, urban landscapes, still-lifes, flowers, seascapes, boats, animals...

Article

German, 19th – 20th century, male.

Born 4 May 1860, in Schönnbrunn, Troppau (now Czech Republic); died 7 June 1923, in Leipzig.

Draughtsman, illustrator. Costume studies.

Arthur Lewin settled in Leipzig in 1874. He illustrated humorous publications, including the works of Edwin Bormann.

Article

French, 18th – 19th century, male.

Born 27 January 1755, in Abbeville; died 6 April 1827, in Paris.

Painter, draughtsman, engraver (etching), illustrator. Landscapes, costume studies. Vignettes.

Louis Morel d'Arleux studied under Doyen and Vien. He painted views of Italy and engraved illustrations for books, ornaments and costume designs....